Inside Iran

Inside Iran #3: India’s 800-year-old link to Chabahar

“You know… there is another person from India here,” remarked Barkat, my local guide-cum-driver, as we cruised along the sandy coastline of Chabahar on a hot, hot afternoon.

“From India?”

“Yes. He came a very, very long time ago…”

“Ah… Syed Ghulam Rasool!” *

20151101_154159
View from outside the compound wall of Syed Ghulam Rasool’s shrine

Legend has it that Syed Ghulam Rasool traveled from India to Persia about 800 years ago, fell in love with a local beauty and married her. Unfortunately, he passed away in his sleep that very night.

The locals then built a shrine as his resting place.

20151101_154242

 

20151101_154551
Syed Ghulam Rasool’s tomb inside the shrine

 

 

20151101_154330
The shrine was expanded and has this very plain entrance now.
20151101_154757
A closer look at Rasool’s tomb.

The best part though is this: Every year, they hold a two-night festival to celebrate (rather than mourn) his death with dance and music.

Chabahar is in Iran’s Sistan-va-Baluchestan province and as the name suggests dominated by the Baloch community. During the festivities, Baloch from across the border in Pakistan also join in.

According to Barkat, the celebrations fall in the cooler months of December-January.

Wish I could be there then.

 

How did I know? The real reason was too complicated to break down for Barkat, especially in my halting Persian. Two years ago, I prepared a 5-minute presentation on Chabahar in my Persian class at Georgetown. The emotions you experience when you finally see with your own eyes the distant places that you’d obsessed over in pictures is priceless!